Focus on the Backroads » Photo Journeys

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    There is approximately 50,000 miles of Interstate Highway in the United States.....filled with cars traveling at an average of 75 miles an hour. Several years ago I began driving the BACKROADS throughout Texas and the surrounding states - discover many fascinating places and people. While traveling "off the beaten path" I have tried to capture the spirit of these forgotten roads in photographs.

    After sharing some of these journeys with folks I have met I've been encouraged to document my travels.........I invite you to FOCUS ON THE BACKROADS!

    "To often......I would hear men boast of the miles covered that day, rarely of what they had seen"
    Louis L'Amour

FOCUS ON THE BACKROADS: Ammannsville’s Painted Church St John the Baptist Catholic Church

Ammannsville, Texas‘ roots go back to the 1870’s and is named after the first settler, Andrew Amman.  Like many of the towns in the area the early settlers were German and Czech immigrants.  In 1876 the first business opened and the town had a post office by 1890.

St. John the Baptist Catholic Church was opened in 1890.  This church was destroyed in a hurricane in 1909.  A second church was built by Leo Dielmann, an architect from High Hill.  This second church burned to the ground in 1917.  Immediately the folk in Ammannsville began to plan and rebuild a third time.  The third church was completed in 1919.  This church was simpler than the earlier ones, the interior has wide open spaces.  Six of the statues and a crucifix that had been saved from the fire were placed in the church.  Fred Donecker, a noted decorative painter was hired to give some pizzazz to the church’s interior which is a dusty rose color.

In the early days the women sat on one side of the church and the men sat on the other.  The pews still have hooks where the men would hang their hats.

Next to the church is a cemetery with artistic old ornate tombstones, many of which include Czech inscriptions.  Many of the early settlers are buried here.

There are still about 40 local residents today in the area.  Most of the local activities revolve around the church and the KJT hall.

St John the Baptist Catholic Church and Ammannsville are reminders of a simpler time.  Once a thriving community it is now a  step back in time.  While touring the Painted Churches of Texas be sure and make Ammannsville one of your stops.

The Church is the one institution that exist for those outside it”      William Tyndale



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FOCUS ON THE BACKROADS: Dubina Tx Painted Church: St. Cyril & Methodious

In the 1800s Czech and German immigrants came to the Lone Star State, many settled in the central part of Texas.  They named their towns after towns they had left in their homelands.  Dubina, Texas is one of these towns.  These settlers had a very strong work ethic, a great sense of community, and a strong desire to worship and pray together.  They purposely made their new churches feel like the ancient structures that they had left by painting the walls, alters, and arches of their new churches wooden walls in colorful patterns.  These churches became know as THE PAINTED CHURCHES.  These churches have been preserved including St Cyril & Methodious Catholic Church in Dubina, Texas.

Dubina  is known as the first Czech Settlement in Texas founded in 1856.  The first recorded Europeans to pass through the area were member of the La Salle party in 1680.  There are records that confirm that La Salle pasted within 2,000 yards of where St Cyril & Methodious Church is located.  Dubina became the spiritual, cultural, and business center for this region of Texas.

In 1877,  St Cyril & Methodious Church was built.  A freed slave, Tom Lee, built the cross on the steeple that is still on the church today.  In the 1880’s there were more than 600 families in the parish.  The church was destroyed in 1909 by a hurricane.  Immediately the people of Dubina began building rebuilding – in 1911 the current church was completed – including the iron cross that was salvage from the debris.  The interior was painted with beautiful frescos, vines, oak leaves, and angels.  During the 1950s unfortunately the entire interior was whitewashed.

Fortunately in 1983 efforts, lead by Judge Ed Janeckas and Butch Koenig, began to restore the church interior.  The original designs were uncovered during the renovation and restored using some of the original stencils.

This church stands as a reminder of an important period of Texas History.  These early settles had a strong faith in God which help them through many hardships as they settled in this new land.  This church is open daily to visitors and is worth a visit.  St. Cyril & Methodious Church is located off FM 1383, two miles north of highway 90.

“Let us go into the house of Lord”   Psalms 122:1



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Every year, come December there is magic in the air as we prepare for Christmas and the chance to celebrate Jesus’ birth.  After Mary and Joseph had traveled the BACKROADS our savior was born in a manger.  There is not better place to celebrate the birth of Christ then on the Backroads of THE LONE STAR STATE (since most of us consider this the promise land).

Wishing all a very Merry and Blessed Christmas from the BACKROADS OF TEXAS:

The Night Before Christmas……..TEXAS STYLE


‘Twas Christmas Eve in Texas, when all ‘cross th’ ranch,
Not one critter was stirrin’, not even a branch;

Th’ boot-socks were hung from barbed wire with care,
In hopes that th’ tops this year would not tear;

Th’ kids were all tucked up like cows in a shed,
While dreamin’ of baked goods like cookies and bread;

Mom hung up her Stetson by my worn Resistol,
Took off boots, jeans and belts then in bed we did fall,

When out by th’ barn there was all sorts of clangin’
We jumped up right quick to see what was a bangin’.

Grabbed up our rifles and dressed quick like hustlers,
Grabbed ammo ‘n’ shotguns case it was rustlers.

Moon glow on tin roof shined by sand blowin’ hard
Gave enough light for seein’ and showed th’ farmyard,

We ‘uns concluded we was a seein’ thangs
Like, an old worn-out stagecoach pulled by eight green-broke mustangs,

With a great big ol’ driver, who held a tight rein,
we sure knew right quickly it must be John Wayne.

Much faster than bullets his horses sure came,
Still he whistled, and shouted, and yelled out each name:

“Now Pitchfork! now Pickup! now, Chisum and Dallas!
On, Haybale! on, Hairball! on, Lonestar and Texas!

Right over th’ leech field! and on past th’ well pump
Now gee-up and yee-haw, git ready to jump!”

Like tumbleweeds scurry when tornadoes whirl by,
When they just go and head skyward, up they sure fly.

Yep, up to th’ rooftop them horses strivin’,
with that stage full of toys, and th’ Duke a drivin’

In just a short moment we heard on th’ roof
Th’ stomping and stamping of each unshod hoof.

As we threw on our hats, and were heading downstairs,
John Wayne kicked in the front door which fell on two chairs.

Was dressed like a sheriff, from his hat to his boots,
And his clothes were all showin’ deep-down western roots;

Saddle bag of toys he had flung ‘cross his back,
and small things stuffed in pockets too much for his pack.

His eyes how they squinted! his pistol how gleamin’!
His badge was all shiny, his neck scarf tied streamin’!

His shirt unbuttoned, with th’ flap hanging down
And th’ jut of his chin was as fierce as his frown;

His rifle he held onto tight in his hand,
‘Til he got a good feel for the lay of the land;

He had broad shoulders which carried quite a load in
And shook when he laughed as his face creased with a grin.

He was handsome and tall, a legend come to life,
And we sure liked what we saw both me ‘n’ th’ wife.

Him winkin’ at Mom and a noddin’ his head
Made us glad we did not get Santa instead.

He drawled a few words, but he mostly just worked,
Filled boot-socks with oranges and meat, spicy-jerked,

And waving his hand in gesture well known,
Crashed through a window just as if he was thrown;

He sprang to his coach, toward his team the whip cracked,
Away they all galloped as if some injuns attacked.

But we all heard him shout, as he started to go,
“Howdy, Pardner, all y’all, saddle up, wagons ho!”

poem by Suzann Darnall


“Christmas, my child, is love in action.”  Dale Evans

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Located in the panhandle of Texas, Palo Duro Canyon is the second largest  canyon in the United States.  It is approximately 120 miles long with an average width of 6 miles.  Some areas are as wide as 20 miles.  It’s depth ranges from 800 to 1,000 feet.

There is evidence of human habitation of the canyon that dates back to approximately 10,000 years ago.  Native Americans were drawn to the canyon area with water provided by the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River, and plentiful plants and wildlife.  The canyon also provided protection from severe weather conditions.

In 1541, members of the Coronado expedition were the first European explorers to discover the canyon.  At that time Apache Indians inhabited the canyon.  The Apaches were later driven from the area by Comanche and Kiowa tribes, who had acquired an advantage of owning horses which had been brought to the area by the Spanish.

In 1852, the canyon was mapped out by  the US military under the command of Captain Randolph Mercy.  They were searching for the headwaters of the Red River.  The area stayed under the control of Indian tribes until 1874 when a military expedition led by Colonel Ronald Mackenzie came to the area with orders to move the indians to reservations in Oklahoma.  The Comanche and Kiowa conceded after the Battle of Palo Duro Canyon, on of the last battles of the Texas-Indian Wars.

In 1876, Charles Goodnight and John Adair established the legendary JA Ranch.  By 1883 this ranch included approximately 1,335,000 acres of land (in six counties) with a herd of 100,000 cattle.  Goodnight became one of the best know ranchers in Texas and is considered by many as the “father of the Texas Panhandle”.

From 1916 to 1918, while the head of the art department at West Texas State Normal College, Georgia O’Keefe made the canyon the subject of many of her paintings.  She described the canyon “It is a burning, seething cauldron, filled with dramatic light and color”.  She hit it right on the nose!

In 1934 The State of Texas purchased the upper section of the canyon and developed it into the 29,182 acre Palo Duro Canyon State Park.  The park contains over 30 miles hiking, biking, and equestrian trails.  There are both RV and tent campsites available.  The most amazing accommodations are the three stone and timber rim cabins which are perched on the canyons rim (these are very popular and reservations are difficult to secure – believe me I know – BUT it is worth the effort).  From the roofs of the rim cabins you will be treated to some amazing sunrises and sunset.  After the sun goes down get comfortable and enjoy the big Texas night sky!

During the summer the musical TEXAS is performed at the Palo Duro Canyon amphitheater.

Palo Duro Canyon State Park is a true Texas treasure – full of natural beauty and rich with Texas history.  Every year over 500,000 people visit.  I for one plan to return and join these people every year!

“I had to create an equivalent for what I felt about what I was looking at – not copy it”          Georgia O’Keeffe



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The Texas Longhorn should be named the “official animal of the Texas Backroad”.  The long cattle drives during the 1800’s when millions of cattle were herded northward from Texas defines to most the “old west”.  J Frank Dobie , wrote in his 1941 classic, The Longhorns, that the Chisholm Trail, from Texas to Kansas; “initiated the most fantastic and fabulous migration of animals controlled by man that the world has ever known or can ever know”.  Without  the Longhorns  and these drives the cowboy probably would not have become a folk hero.

In the late 1400’s cattle were introduced to North America by Spanish conquistadors who were searching for gold.  These Spanish explorers turned their cattle loose on islands in the Caribbean.  On their own they grew larger and wild.  They thrived growing heavy boned, skinny, and swift.  Their long horns provided offensive and defensive protection.  Soon they developed  a keen cleverness and a fiery temper.

In the 1500’s  as Spanish explorers set sail whey brought with them herds of cattle to have beef while on their expeditions.  These explorers held to the Castilian tradition that grass was a gift of nature and did not fence in their herds.  Many of these cattle wandered off and joined the wild population.  In the 1800’s, early American settlers to the Texas Territories, at that time a part of Mexico, primarily raised European breeds of cattle including English Longhorns.  The Texas Longhorn resulted from the accidental crossbreeding of the these wild  cattle, descendants of the cattle left from earlier explorers and the cows of early American settlers.  The Texas Longhorn was easily identifiable as a wild, ornery, multicolored bovine weighing up to 1,500 pounds with a horn spread of 4 to 7 feet.

The Longhorn had few enemies.  Native Indians did not hunt them, they preferred to hunt buffalo which were tamer and easier to kill.  They also preferred the buffalo meat and found more uses for the buffalo hides and bones.  Other predators, such as wolves were shied away from the mean and deadly Longhorns.  On the other hand, anglo Americas preferred beef over the buffalo meat – creating a large market for early cattlemen.  During a cows life time she would usually have about 12 calves providing a steady supply for this market.

During the Civil War, the unattended Longhorns flourished and by 1865 somewhere between 5 to 6 million Longhorns resided in Texas,  most were wilded and unbranded.  Confederate veterans who had returned from the war began to build up herd by branding these unmarked cattle.  At that time a steer was worth about $4.00 in Texas.  In meat-packing  towns in the North, such as Chicago and Cincinnati that same animal would sell for about $40.00.  The only issue was how to get the steers to these markets.  In 1866 more than 25,000 steers were driven from Texas toward Kansas and Missouri, but because of disease and cow thieves many did not make it..  In 1867, Abilene, Kansas, which was the railhead of the Kansas & Pacific, opened up a major market and became the first of what was know as a “cow town”.  For the next 20 years  cattlemen drove Longhorns along these long trails. A drive would  usually cover about 1,500 miles and take anywhere from 4 to 6 months.  Long hours, brutal conditions, and very dangerous work, mostly in a saddle.  This work appealed to a certain type of man – The American Cowboy.  These cowboys would earn about $30.00 a month.

A trail drive often resulted in a lot of money for the cattle owner.  A steer sold for about $40.00 and the trail expenses were about $1.00 a head.  The average drive was 2,000 head.  One of the largest recorded herds to leave Texas was in 1869 with 15,000 head.  A lot of money was being made and a large amount of beef was being exported to Europe.  Investors from England and Scotland started to buy up American ranches as investments.  They soon were introducing  their black Angus and white faced Herefords.  These were beefier cows.  They also brought in their Shorthorns to upgrade herds of Longhorns – Shorthorns were meatier and the Longhorns were hardier.  This cross resulted in a more marketable animal.  By the late 1800’s the Texas Longhorn appeared to be on their way to being bred out of existence.  With the end of open range fenced pastures made it more economical to raise breeds that had better beef and the need for self-sufficant cattle was no long a necessity.

In the early 20th century the Texas Longhorns were nearing extinction.  A few Texas ranchers held onto small herds mostly for sentimental reasons, and now these Longhorns are making an exciting come back (hopefully we will be able to say the same thing soon about the UT Longhorns).  These cattle are now in high demand.  As their early ancestors their ease of calving, resistance to diseases and their ability to thrive on poor pastures.  They also provide a meat that is much leaner than many other breeds of cattle.

The most amazing thing about the TEXAS LONGHORN is that it was created entirely by nature.  It became the product of adapting to it’s environment.  It is the only breed in America which, without the aid of man, is truly adapted to America.  J. Frank Dobie  stated in his book, The Longhorns, “had they been registered and regulated, restrained and provided for my man, they would not have been what they were.”

With the power invested by FOCUS ON THE BACKROADS I now declare the TEXAS LONGHORN as the official mascot of this Blog.





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